Bose Sounddock cradle PCB repair

1. A Ridax replacement PCB (order by clicking here)
2. A Torx-8 screwdriver
3. A side cutter
4. Hot glue, epoxy or similar thick non conductive glue
5. A Philips screwdriver (optional)

	Turn the Bose Sounddock upside down and use a Torx-8 screwdriver and remove the 3 screws marked with red.
	Fold down the bottom of the cradle as shown in the picture and remove it from the ribbon cable by carefully pulling it straight out. Remove the black cover from the PCB.
	Use a side cutter and remove the white plastic welds marked with red. When all 8 white tops are removed you can lift the PCB carefully from the plastic bottom part. If you have used any of the order options that requests you to send the working Bose PCB back to us, this PCB is what you need to send.
	If you ordered the option with a charge converter you need to cut away some of the white plastic console from the bottom part. This is marked with red in the picture. This is to make better room for the charge converter.
	If you ordered the DIY kit, you need to solder the two switches, the 24 pin fpc connector and the 30 pin iPod cradle connector. Note that the pins on the connectos needs to be soldered, it is not enough to just solder the connector in place, each pin should be soldered as well (as some has thought it was enough with "touch" contact). If you have the DIY Sounddock II pcb kit you need to solder 5 resistors as well. Click here for a photo of how to arrange these resistors. Note that the resistor values has been changed, so the values written on the PCB are not correct, but the values shown in the photo is correct. The 100k resistor should be placed to the right at the position marked on the PCB.
	This is a close up photo of the iPod connector on the new PCB. Note the solder blob marked with red in the photo. This blob activates the standard charging method used by the Bose Sounddock. If you ordered the DIY kit and didn't order the PCB with the charge converter, you should put a blob here to close the two pads on the PCB.
	This is the new PCB without (top) and with (bottom) charge converter mounted (the chip to the left is not needed). If you have ordered a DIY kit (and not the ready soldered PCB) this is how the parts should be soldered. If you are soldering the components, make sure there are no shorts between the pins. Check that the PCB can be seated well on the bottom plastic part. If some of the white pins don't line up with the holes in the PCB, you can just cut away the plastic pins. Verify that the Bose Sounddock is working well with the new PCB and if you are satisfied put plenty of hot glue on the whole bottom side of the PCB (be carefuly, it is hot!). Press the PCB onto the plastic bottom part while ensuring that is located in the correct position. Put the black cover over the PCB.
	Put the ribbon cable into the connector of the new PCB. If the ribbon connector is of the type shown to the left the ribbon cable will go in and out of the connector without any effort. To lock it in place you need to push the black locking mechanism while the ribbon cable is in its place. If you think it is difficult to get the ribbon cable back in place, you can pull out more of the ribbon cable to get better room. You will then need to push the ribbon cable back again afterwards, which can require you to unscrew the 4 large black screws that hold the bottom plate in place. Mount the bottom of the cradle back using the 3 Torx-8 screws. If you have the charge converter option, it might be a litte tight. If you want, you could cut away some of the rear wall of the white well that press on the charge converter. But usually it is possible to get it closed without this.